Chiricahua Mountains, AZ -- General Information
Of the five major mountain ranges ("sky islands") in southeast Arizona, the spectacular Chiricahuas are the second largest and cover an area approximately 40 x 20 miles, reaching a height of almost 9800 feet on Chiricahua Peak. (The underbirded Pinaleņo Mountains to the NW cover more area and Mt. Graham tops out at 10, 713 feet.) Although birding is good in all areas of the Chiricahuas, the heaviest (still scantly) populated northern section of the mountains contains all the more well known birding spots.
The aptly named "town" of Portal, located on the eastern side of the mountain near the New Mexico border, is the gateway to birding in the Chiricahuas. Although Portal is the focal point of birding here, it is a very small place with less than 100 residents. Portal Peak Lodge has the only "motel style" accommodations and the only restaurant fully open to the public. There is also a store with a limited selection of food and drink. Several other types of accommodations are available within 5 or 6 miles of Portal. All are either cabins, cottages, bed & breakfast or dormitory style places.
Even though all roads in the mountains (away from the immediate vicinity of Portal) are dirt, most are in good condition. Seasonal difficulties include dust, mud, snow and ice. Most problems are caused by driving too fast and poorly parked vehicles. Drive carefully, anticipate the birder round the next bend looking for birds just like you. Most of all, park safely -- don't leave your car in a dangerous spot. You may have to drive a little past a bird to find a pullout, but your insurance company and others will surely appreciate it.
Important note about gasoline
(don't leave home without it!)
There is no gas available
anywhere in the mountains. The nearest gas is at the store in Rodeo, NM (10 miles from Portal, limited hours).
On I-10, as of January 2008, the gas station in Road Forks, NM is closed.
Consequently, be sure to gas up before arriving! If coming from the east,
gas up in Lordsburg, NM. If coming from the west, gas up in Willcox. If coming
over the Pinery Canyon Road from Sulphur Springs Valley, gas up in Sunizona or
Elfrida. If coming from the south on highway 80, gas up in Douglas.
Unlike most other birding locations in SE AZ, the Chiricahuas are treated as a "destination" birding area. This is partly because of their more remote location, on the edge of SE AZ as it were, but mostly because there are lots of places to explore. Even though you can easily visit the Chiricahuas for the day from any SE AZ location (for example you can drive to Portal from Sierra Vista in about two hours), most visitors opt to stay in the mountains for at least one night. Depending on the season and your objectives and birding style, you might want to stay here for much longer than that.
Habitats in the Chiricahuas reflect the change in elevation from 4000 feet in the San Simon valley as you approach the mountain, to over 9000 feet on the upper peaks. Starting in Chihuahuan desert scrub you'll pass through Chaparral, Pine-Oak woodland, Ponderosa Pine forest and finally reach Spruce-Fir forest. Not surprisingly, the bird diversity changes dramatically with the habitat.
Places to bird in and around the mountains include "Willow Tank" (the only significant pond in the area) located near Rodeo; "Big Thicket" and the environs of Portal; feeders at homes and lodging places; the Southwestern research station; the George Walker House in Paradise; the entire length of Cave Creek Canyon including the South Fork trail where you can walk for a while!; roadside birding along the Paradise, Pinery Canyon (my favorite) and Rustler Park Roads; and at Rustler and Barfoot Parks. These are some of the "name" places, most of which are described in detail in the birdfinding guides. However, if you're in the mountains for other than "tick and run" purposes, I encourage you to get off the beaten path and find other places for yourself. There are plenty of them.
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